Sunrise on Dec. 12 was at 4:48AM.
This day was mostly spent steaming along - well, let's check the map:
I made a BIG, but thin, circle around the location of our encounter, at 3AM, with the dreaded 'open ocean.' Our destination, later in the day, was Pia Glacier, a medium-sized, but actively moving glacier. In the morning after breakfast, we had a series of talks on glaciology and on some the indigenous tribes that lived in this area. One thing I learned about glaciers is that a glacier that looks white is composed of minimally compressed snow containing a lot of air, hence all light is reflected from the surface. A glacier that looks blue is composed of extremely compressed snow, so compressed that the small amount of air scatters light in blue, or very short, wavelengths. A glacier that looks clear contains minute amounts of air and light passes right through it.
Three of the indigenous tribes were called the Yámana, the Hausch, and the Selk'nam. The Yámana lived in the Cape Horn area and were a peaceable tribe. They hunted and fished, built and traveled in canoes and moved around a lot. We were told that they wore no clothing, except for a small loincloth, and the women regularly swam in the water and dived for mussels and clams! There was a lot of discussion about whether this was believable or not! Think about it - the waters around Cape Horn . . . 900 km from Antarctica . . . naked women diving into the water for food . . . ?! Charles Darwin expressed amazement that they were always barefoot, even in the snow. The Hausch and Selk'nam lived inland on the main island of Tierra del Fuego and hunted guanacos. Both tribes were known to be fierce warriors.
After lunch we prepared for our third trip in the zodiacs, this time to see the Pia Glacier. We disembarked at the place on the map that has the number 3 in red, but it's kind of hard to see. It's just to the right of the words, "Glaciar Pia." This was a wonderful and exciting excursion.
About this blog . . . .
In the introduction to his book, PATAGONIA - At the Bottom of the World, Dick Lutz wrote: "Patagonia is a region, not a country. It spans the southern third of Chile and Argentina, stretching between the Pacific and the Atlantic roughly from Puerto Montt, Chile and Peninsula Valdes, Argentina south [until] it meets the famous waterways of the Strait of Magellan, Beagle Channel, and Drake Passage (or Drake Strait). The northern limit of Patagonia is ill-defined, while the border between Chile and Argentina divides the region." Patagonia is sparsely populated, so much so that in 1991 the Hudson volcano erupted and no human was injured, even though this eruption was larger than that of Mt. St. Helens in 1980.
Ivan and I have been eyeing this area for a visit for quite some time. The possibility is great that we will see penguins, guanacos, Steamer Ducks (Flightless as well as Flying!), as well as many dozens of other remarkable animals and birds, to say nothing of the insects, reptiles, mountains. I'd better stop here. Writing these blogs has been a source of much pleasure for me, so if you follow us on our trip, my hope is that you will learn something about this unusual place, and will have a bit of fun reading of our adventures and, in some cases, misadventures!
REMEMBER TO READ FROM THE BOTTOM UP! The latest post will be at the top of the page, with earlier posts below it.

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